With V-Sharp A4, V-Sharp A4 ELITE, V-Sharp CLASSIC II, dem V-Sharp CLASSIC II ELITE sowie dem V-Sharp XTREME EDGE the sanding units are attached to the upper end and can be easily removed by hand or with the tip of a knife. If you want to use a sanding unit with a different grit, you can quickly replace it.
The V-Sharp Curve is the only knife sharpener from Warthog that does not offer this option, as the two 325 grinding units are permanently installed here.
Step by step to a perfectly sharpened blade
Sharpening your knives is quick and easy with the V-Sharp A4. We give you tips on how to adapt the V-Sharp to each blade so that your knives are always perfectly sharpened.
Setting the blade guide
If you loosen the upper knob slightly, you can adjust the blade guide to the thickness of your blade. If you move the knob towards the handpiece, you can sharpen thicker blades. In the other direction, you can adjust the blade guide for thinner blades.
It is important that you always pull the blade straight along the blade guide to ensure that the blade runs evenly through the whetstones.
It is important that you always pull the blade straight along the blade guide to ensure that the blade runs evenly through the whetstones.
Adjusting the blade guide
If you loosen the upper knob a little, you can adjust the blade guide to the thickness of your blade. If you move the knob in the direction of the handpiece, you can sharpen thicker blades. In the other direction, adjust the blade guide for thinner blades.
It is important that you always pull the blade straight along the blade guide, this ensures that the blade runs evenly through the whetstones.
It is important that you always pull the blade straight along the blade guide, this ensures that the blade runs evenly through the whetstones.
Setting the "V"
Use the knobs on the left and right to set the intersection point.
For wedge-shaped blades, the intersection point should be close to the blade guide. For parallel blades, there should be a small gap (depending on the thickness of the blade).
Once you have set the "V", you can start actually sharpening your knife.
For wedge-shaped blades, the intersection point should be close to the blade guide. For parallel blades, there should be a small gap (depending on the thickness of the blade).
Once you have set the "V", you can start actually sharpening your knife.
Setting the "V"
Use the knobs on the left and right to set the intersection point.
For wedge-shaped blades, the intersection point should be close to the blade guide. For parallel blades, there should be a small gap (depending on the thickness of the blade).
Once you have set the "V", you can start actually sharpening your knife.
For wedge-shaped blades, the intersection point should be close to the blade guide. For parallel blades, there should be a small gap (depending on the thickness of the blade).
Once you have set the "V", you can start actually sharpening your knife.
Start with sharpening
This is only necessary for unsharpened or very dull knives.
Start at the end of the blade and pull the knife downwards through the two sharpening stones. Make a sawing motion and pull the knife through the sharpener only until just before the tip. Make sure you always move the blade straight along the blade guide. Repeat this 30-40 times, depending on how dull the blade is. The harder the blade, the more repetitions you do.
Start with sharpening
This is only necessary for unsharpened or very dull knives.
Start at the end of the blade and pull the knife downwards through the two sharpening stones. Make a sawing motion and pull the knife through the sharpener only until just before the tip. Make sure you always move the blade straight along the blade guide. Repeat this 30-40 times, depending on how dull the blade is. The harder the blade, the more repetitions you do.
Start at the end of the blade and pull the knife downwards through the two sharpening stones. Make a sawing motion and pull the knife through the sharpener only until just before the tip. Make sure you always move the blade straight along the blade guide. Repeat this 30-40 times, depending on how dull the blade is. The harder the blade, the more repetitions you do.
Complete the sharpening process
To complete the sharpening, pull the blade 10-15 completely through the two sharpening stones. Start at the back end of the blade and pull the knife completely through the V-Sharp. For harder blades, you can also repeat the process 20-30 times.
Once the blade has been sharpened with the V-Sharp, it is sufficient to drag the dulled blade over the stones 5-15 times.
At the very end, turn the stones over so that the back of the steel is in front. Insert the bars at 30° and finish by drawing the blade over the steel for another 10-15. This gives the blade a sharp and durable finish.
Once the blade has been sharpened with the V-Sharp, it is sufficient to drag the dulled blade over the stones 5-15 times.
At the very end, turn the stones over so that the back of the steel is in front. Insert the bars at 30° and finish by drawing the blade over the steel for another 10-15. This gives the blade a sharp and durable finish.
Complete the sharpening process
To complete the sharpening, pull the blade 10-15 completely through the two sharpening stones. Start at the back end of the blade and pull the knife completely through the V-Sharp. For harder blades, you can also repeat the process 20-30 times.
Once the blade has been sharpened with the V-Sharp, it is sufficient to drag the dulled blade over the stones 5-15 times.
At the very end, turn the stones over so that the back of the steel is in front. Insert the bars at 30° and finish by drawing the blade over the steel for another 10-15. This gives the blade a sharp and durable finish.
Once the blade has been sharpened with the V-Sharp, it is sufficient to drag the dulled blade over the stones 5-15 times.
At the very end, turn the stones over so that the back of the steel is in front. Insert the bars at 30° and finish by drawing the blade over the steel for another 10-15. This gives the blade a sharp and durable finish.
Tips for use and frequently asked questions
30 Degrees (A4, A4 ELITE, CLASSIC II, CLASSIC II ELITE, XTREME EDGE):
The angle for rough work - intended use: working knives, chopping knives and knives used for cutting cardboard, cables, wood, ropes or opening cans.
25 Degrees (A4, A4 ELITE, CLASSIC II, CLASSIC II ELITE, XTREME EDGE): Sharper cutting edge - Intended use: butcher's knife, kitchen knife, honing knife, pocket knife, hunting knife.
20 Degrees (A4, A4 ELITE, CLASSIC II, CLASSIC II ELITE, XTREME EDGE):
Sharp but fine cutting edge - Not suitable for hard cutting boards, especially for filleting knives, razors, paring knives and fine cutting.
17 Degrees (XTREME EDGE):
A sharp blade, even when travelling - perfect for filleting knives, Japanese knives and all blades that tend to come into contact with soft materials.
15 Degrees (A4, A4 ELITE):
For an even finer blade - Perfect for filleting knives, Japanese knives and all blades that tend to come into contact with soft materials.
The sanding angle can only be adjusted on the V-Sharp A4, A4 ELITE, CLASSIC II, CLASSIC II ELITE and the XTREME EDGE. The V-Sharp CURVE has a fixed sanding angle of 25 degrees.
325 grit:
Coarse - Perfect for a very blunt blade. The coarse grit removes a lot of material and quickly evens out any unevenness in the blade. Well suited for many blades, especially for work knives and for private use.
600 grit:
Medium - Best suited for an already sharpened blade. Gives the blade an even sharper edge. For finer blades and finer work. The blade sharpness does not last as long as a coarser ground blade.
1000 grit:
Fine - For maximum blade sharpness. The very fine grit allows the blade to be ground very sharp. Perfect for Japanese knives and very delicate cuts.
Yes, the V-Sharp A4, V-Sharp A4 ELITE, V-Sharp CLASSIC II und dem V-Sharp CLASSIC II ELITE can also be used to sharpen serrated knives (e.g. bread knives).
For knives with a serrated edge on one side:
Here, the angle is set to 30° on the side of the serration and 20° on the other side. Then go through each individual serration and move the knife up and down 10-15 times.
However, the separately available ceramic grinding units are required for this.
No, water does not need to be applied to any of our whetstones.
With average use, the sanding units will last up to several years. Basically, the finer the grit and duller the blade, the faster the bars wear out.